In just a few steps, build a personalised desk. With a large work surface and additional storage space, it makes a fantastic addition to any office or teenager's bedroom.
Drill and 20 mm wood or spade drill and possibly 2 mm for pre-drilling
Screwdriver or ratchet set with screwdriver attachment
Pencil
Folding rule
Try square and ruler for transferring the grid
Implements to draw a circle, nail and bendable strip for free-hand shape drawing
Sanding machine or block and coarse, medium and fine sandpaper
Lashing strap
Table panels
1 Upper panel 800 x 400 x 21 mm Birch veneer plywood
1 Table top 1600 x 900 x 21 mm Birch veneer plywood
Wooden supports
3 Shelves of left column 480 x 480 x 21 mm Birch veneer plywood (Circle)
3 Cover and base, right-hand side panel 470 x 160 x 21 mm Birch veneer plywood (Radii - no template)
4 Upper panel fixing 105 x 105 x 21 mm Birch veneer plywood (Internal diameter drainpipe)
Panelling
2 Sub-construction for strips 400 x 740 x 4 mm plywood (Shelf column)
1 Sub-construction for strips 440 x 740 x 4 mm plywood (Right-hand side panel inside)
1 Sub-construction for strips 540 x 740 x 4 mm plywood (Right-hand side panel outside)
95 Enclosure: Half-round strips made from pine 740 x 10 x 20 mm (glued, 2 x 20 shelf column, residual side panel)
Other:
3 Test tubes, here diameter 20 mm
2 Spacers (plastic pipe) for the top panel diameter 110 x 80
Various wood screws
Wood glue
Acrylic paint
Sketch 1
Sketch 1
Sketch 2
Sketch 2
Step-by-step guide for building and painting a desk
Step 1 of 9: Drawing the components
Attached is a list of all the materials required. Use the grid drawing (attached) as a template. Each grid square is 100 x 100mm. The 100 x 100 mm grid is drawn onto the table top, the points transferred and then linked free-hand (left image). The outlines of the shelves (wooden supports for the column) are drawn using string, a nail and pencil to draw the circle (right image).
Attached is a list of all the materials required. Use the grid drawing (attached) as a template. Each grid square is 100 x 100mm. The 100 x 100 mm grid is drawn onto the table top, the points transferred and then linked free-hand (left image). The outlines of the shelves (wooden supports for the column) are drawn using string, a nail and pencil to draw the circle (right image).
Step 2 of 9: Cutting out the components
The individual parts are cut out (see also the dimensional sketch attached) using a jigsaw. To start with, drill an approximately 20 mm hole touching the edge of the outer panel.
The individual parts are cut out (see also the dimensional sketch attached) using a jigsaw. To start with, drill an approximately 20 mm hole touching the edge of the outer panel.
Step 3 of 9: Connecting the shelves
The three shelves (wooden supports) in the left-hand column are connected using two 400 x 740 mm x 4 mm plywood panels. To ensure that the shape does not warp, a 90° angle must always be maintained. Screws are positioned approximately every 50 mm (left image).
Tip: Lashing straps can help to secure the panels before screwing them into place! Before the strips are glued, the surface to be coated should be sanded. The first half-round wooden strip (available from well-stocked DIY stores or timber merchants) is screwed on from inside (right image).
The three shelves (wooden supports) in the left-hand column are connected using two 400 x 740 mm x 4 mm plywood panels. To ensure that the shape does not warp, a 90° angle must always be maintained. Screws are positioned approximately every 50 mm (left image).
Tip: Lashing straps can help to secure the panels before screwing them into place! Before the strips are glued, the surface to be coated should be sanded. The first half-round wooden strip (available from well-stocked DIY stores or timber merchants) is screwed on from inside (right image).
Step 4 of 9: Gluing the half-round wooden strips
The remaining half-round wooden strips are glued flush onto the surface. The lashing straps (left image) are again helpful for this. By clamping the straps, the glue is distributed over the surface and the half-round wooden strips are secured in place while the glue is drying. Any glue that leaks out must be removed straight away with a damp cloth. Once the glue has dried, the lashing straps can be removed (right image).
The remaining half-round wooden strips are glued flush onto the surface. The lashing straps (left image) are again helpful for this. By clamping the straps, the glue is distributed over the surface and the half-round wooden strips are secured in place while the glue is drying. Any glue that leaks out must be removed straight away with a damp cloth. Once the glue has dried, the lashing straps can be removed (right image).
Step 5 of 9: Screwing the right-hand column into place
The right-hand column is built in the same way, except that the shelves (wooden supports) are crescent-shaped. First screw on the outer parts and then the central piece to increase the stability. Screw distance max. 50 mm. The first half-round wooden strip must also be screwed into place from inside.
The right-hand column is built in the same way, except that the shelves (wooden supports) are crescent-shaped. First screw on the outer parts and then the central piece to increase the stability. Screw distance max. 50 mm. The first half-round wooden strip must also be screwed into place from inside.
Step 6 of 9: Attaching the half-round wooden strips
Now apply glue again and attach the remaining half-round wooden strips (left image). In the upper panel, holes are drilled at the narrow end which will later be used to hold pens. A wooden offcut should be used so that the worktop underneath is not damaged (right image).
Now apply glue again and attach the remaining half-round wooden strips (left image). In the upper panel, holes are drilled at the narrow end which will later be used to hold pens. A wooden offcut should be used so that the worktop underneath is not damaged (right image).
Step 7 of 9: Stirring the paint
Open the tin containing the paint in the required colour using the stirrer included with the W 100 and align the suction pipe on the spray attachment so it is facing forwards. Fill paint up to the 3/4 mark on the paint container and dilute it. Place the stirrer against the base of the filled paint container. The distance between the notches represents a dilution of 10%. Stir the paint well and carry out a test spray. The spray nozzle can be positioned in three different directions. A horizontal jet to work from top to bottom, vertical for right to left or for particularly intricate areas. The small wheel allows the quantity of paint to be steplessly adjusted.
Open the tin containing the paint in the required colour using the stirrer included with the W 100 and align the suction pipe on the spray attachment so it is facing forwards. Fill paint up to the 3/4 mark on the paint container and dilute it. Place the stirrer against the base of the filled paint container. The distance between the notches represents a dilution of 10%. Stir the paint well and carry out a test spray. The spray nozzle can be positioned in three different directions. A horizontal jet to work from top to bottom, vertical for right to left or for particularly intricate areas. The small wheel allows the quantity of paint to be steplessly adjusted.
Step 8 of 9: The spraying process
Start with corners, edges and angles and then spray the surfaces. Spray from the outside with a uniform distance over the half-round wooden strips. Only change the direction of spray when past the edge of the half-round wooden strips. This avoids a build-up of thicker layers of paint during direction changes. Tip: Since paint applied too thickly can cause drips, it is better to spray two thin coats. After spraying, allow the paint to dry in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Clean the spray attachment thoroughly with water and solvent after use.
Step 9 of 9: The table top
Screw the securing panels (wooden supports) for the tubes to the large table top and under the small upper panel and attach the tubes.
Learn here how best to proceed when spraying varnish, what you should look out for, why it's worth spraying varnishes and what the best equipment is for it.